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PUBLISHED BY CITYHERBS
1790

Petits Pois a la Chantilly

 


It’s June 1790 and Doris is at a royal garden party held for the latest batch of French aristocratic ‘émigrés’ to arrive in England. Among the guests were Count and Countess De La Rue, from Chantilly. The Count, a foppish man calle Danny, tries to win favour with Doris by infering that he’s the famous Scarlet Pimpernel. Although he bores her, Doris puts up with him until he begins to get a bit fruity. She is about to slap him when she notices his wife walking past and beckons her over. The Count flushes bright red and the Countess knows immediately what’s going on. She says “allow me” and then slaps her husband for Doris. She explains that he couldn’t be the Pimpernel because he’s frightened of his own reflection. And sink me! The two ladies begin to get on like a house on fire. The countess even gives Doris this fabulous recipe.

Recipe

Scrape and trim a bunch of Baby Carrots. Put in a pan with a teacup of cold Water,1/2oz Butter, a sprig of Mint and Salt, Pepper ans Sugar to taste. Cover the pan and allow to simmer for 7-10 minutes. Add 1 pint of shelled young Peas, anothe 1/2 oz Butter and extra seasoning if needed and cook rapidly uncovered until the peas are tender and only 1 tbs of liquid remains. Remove the mint, fold in 2 tbs Whipped Cream and serve.

 

1816

Swordfish with Seville Orange Butter

 
Doris is a guest of Gioacchino Antonio Rossini, who’s writing “The Barber of Seville” in the Spanish city itself. Signor Faltio (manager of the hotel where Rossinis party is staying) hears that Doris is a gourmet and introduces her to his clumsy, but excellent, chef Manuel, from Barcelona. Manuel confides that his pet hamster has escaped and that Signor Faltio will fire him if the guests see it. Doris immediately makes a cheese soufflet, which her pet gerbils back home find irresistible. She baits a cage trap with it and retires. Next day, shock, horror! There’s a rat in the cage. Manuel is delighted, insisting that the creature is his pet hamster, Basillico. To show his gratitude, he cooks Doris his most famous dish — and gives her the recipe.

Recipe

Make the dressing by creaming together 1tsp Seville Orange Juice, a pinch of Sugar, 1/2tsp Paprika, the zest of 1/2 the Orange (finely chopped), 1 1/2oz Butter and a slice of Shallot crushed with coarse Sea Salt. Leave to set in the fridge. Marinate 1kg of 3cm cubed Swordfish in the juice of 1 Lemon, mixed with that of 1/2 a Seville Orange, and a cup of well seasoned Fish Stock and plenty of Parsley and Thyme, for an hour. Drain, season, place on skewers and brush with melted Butter. Char-grill for 4 minutes making sure all sides are seared. Serve with a knob of the Seville Orange Butter.

 

1900

Duck Breasts stuffed with Nisperos

 


Doris meets young Hungarian, Erich Weiss, whilst they’re both holidaying at Kaka del Torre on the Costa Packet, Spain. One evening after much drinking in the hotel bar, Eric invites Doris up to his room. She agrees to go, but regrets it when he produces a gag, blindfold, a pair of handcuffs, a heavy duty chain and some stout rope. Doris is about to fetch ring for the concierge when Eric asks her if she’ll chain, tie and blindfold him and lock him in his trunk. Doris refuses at first, but he manages to convince her it’LL be alright. After about twenty minutes, Erich hasn’t emerged. Doris begins to get worried. When half an hour has passed she runs down to the night porter for some tools to open the case. Soon all the staff and guests of the hotel gather in the room to gawp. Several men tug and lever the chains, but to no avail. Then Doris has an idea... She plucks a hairpin out of her neat bun and uses it to pick the lock. Success! Senorita Garcias the owner of the hotel, it so pleased that Doris has averted a potentially scandalous tragedy, that she cooks her a splendid meal — and lets her have the recipe!

Recipe

Soften 2oz finely chopped Shallots in 1oz Butter. Season well and add 2 tbs Demerara Sugar, 4 oz peeled, diced Nisperos and a dash of Lemon Juice. Then stir in 1 tbs pan-toasted Pine Kernels. Allow to cool. slit open 6 Duck Breasts (skin on), stuff with the mixture and sew up. Cook the breasts in a lightly buttered pan, skin side down for about 6 minutes. turn and cook for a further four minutes, Serve sliced with boiled new potatoes, and fresh peas.

P.S. Next time Doris hears from Erich, he’s living in America and has changed his name to Harry Houdini.

1924

Baked fruit with Sweet Cicely Custard

 


June 1924. Doris is cooking for a hunting party at the country home of, Lord William Witherington-Carruthers. The hunt goes well until Lord William’s son Dick, fires a round into a plump hen pheasant he spots in a distant bush. A blood-curdling scream emanates from the bush and head gardener Percy Tosser, rushes out clutching his russet-trousered behind. The man is in a terrible state and witters on about his phobia of hospitals. Luckily Doris has a flask of whisky and some tweezers in her voluminous handbag and insists that she deals with the problem in the potting shed. Doris sterilises the tweezers with a capful of the whisky, then her and Percy share the rest. Twenty one pieces of shot later the job is done and Doris patches up his wounds. Percy is so pleased, he gives Doris a huge bag of peaches, nectarines and apricots from the hothouse, a bunch of sweet cicely and his mothers favourite dessert recipe.

Recipe

Cut up some succulent stonefruit (a mixture of Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots and Loquats is ideal), place in a baking dish and scatter on some Vanilla Sugar. Put in a hot oven for about 10 minutes until softened and slightly browned. Strain off any juice and reduce it to make a thick-ish syrup. For the Custard: Simmer a split Vanilla Pod and good handful of coarsely chopped Sweet Cicely in pint of Milk for 2 minutes. Allow to cool then strain. Beat four Egg Yolks with 1 tsp Cornflour and 2tbs Sugar and then blend in the cooled milk. Put in a double-boiled and warm until the custard thickens. Drizzle the syrup and custard over the fruit and serve just warm.

 

1942

Gypsy Grannie's WC Puffs

 


Spring 1942, Land Army Volunteer Auntie Doris is digging for victory. Not easy in a watercress bed. She spots a gypsy boy stealing the crop. Although duty-bound to report him, she takes pity on the thin lad and helps him gather an armful. In return, she procures his grandmother's recipe.

Recipe

Make a batter from a walnut-sized piece of Yeast, 140g Flour, 1 tbs Salt and 150 ml water. If you have no yeast, use Brown ale, or Stout in place of the water. Wash and throughly dry sprigs of Watercress. Dip in the batter and deep-fry. Serve with poached trout, or steamed chicken. Try using the batter to coat Wild Garlic Leaves, too.

 

1943

Stuffed Brandied Apricots

 


May 1943. Doris, with a red-spotted beret, a pencilled-on moustache and a puff of Gitanes, is parachuted into Bergerac. Resistance leader Henri Le Coq hands her a fragrant, sealed wooden box. Through a hail of Nazi machinegun fire, she makes her way back to Buck House. King George opens it, with glee. Doris faints, with horror. It contains 10 lbs of Apricots ... which she has growing in the greenhouse at Warminster-on-Sea! Nowadays, whenever Doris makes this delicious dessert, she recalls the couple of parts of the royal anatomy she'd most liked to have chopped off.

Recipe

Poach 8 large Apricots in 8tbs good Brandy, 4 tbsp Caster Sugar, 1/4 pint Water and 1 tbs Lemon Juice until tender. Remove the apricots and allow to cool. Strain the poaching liquid and simmer to reduce until syrupy. Seive 5oz Cottage Cheese and mix with 2oz Full Fat Soft Cheese and 1tbs Icing Sugar. Slice the apricots almost in half and remove the stones. Stuff with the mixture and serve drizzled with the poaching syrup. Chill for 2 hours and serve, two per person, sprinkled with toasted slivered Almonds.

 

1943

St. George's Rabbit

 


Doris is a land gal in Kent. Farmer John Sideways and his wife Eileen were generous, but because of rationing, there was little to eat. Good fortune struck on April 23rd. John was teaching Doris to shoot when she dropped the shotgun. It went off and bagged a couple of rabbits in the next field. As Doris (with subdued pride), went to pick-up her spoils, she noticed a huge ring of creamy-white St Georges Mushrooms. She'd heard a rumour that Eileen had an 'arrangement' with Jones the butcher who gave her half a pound of illicit pork and a couple of smoked rashers every Wednesday afternoon. Doris procured the rashers so she could cook one of her specialities.

Recipe

Bone the two Rabbits (or get Jones to do it), cut the meat into cubes and brown in bacon fat with chopped Smoked Bacon, a diced Carrot, Onion and Celery Stick, some Parsley, Salt and Pepper (if you can get it). Add 1/2 pint of stock (made from the bones) and 1/2 pint of Dry Cider. Cook in a low oven until meat is tender then add plenty of finely sliced St Georges Mushrooms and 1/2 pint of Cream and return to simmer for a few minutes. Serve with Potatoes and Spring Greens.

 

1948

Loquat's Caramelised Nispero Pancakes

 


1948, north of Malaga. Doris is on her way to visit her soldier sweetheart,Tommy Gunn, in Gibraltar. Her train is held up by bandits, who call themselves the Nisperos, after their favourite fruits, which grow wild locally. Doris and the gang-leader, Loquat, become so infatuated, they swap recipes.

Recipe

Heat 25g Butter in a heavy pan and add 175g of Unrefined Golden Sugar and a little Lemon Juice. Cook until the syrup turns deep golden brown, then toss in 300g of peeled, halved and stoned Nisperos. Cook over high heat until the fruit begins to soften. Add a dash of good Brandy or Calvados and set fire to the pan. Put into pancakes, roll, sprinkle with a little Icing Sugar and some chopped Lemon Balm. Heat some more spirit and serve flaming.

 

1948

Farmer Giles' Banquet Suckets

 


Kent, 1948 and Auntie Doris is on hop-picking hols. An old farmer told her her about the apple suckets used in 18th Century banquets, but got a slap round the face when he told her what variety to use!

Recipe

Neatly peel and core a dozen small Cox'sand replace the core with a strip of Lemon Peel. Boil the parings and two more halved, unpeeled Applesin 600ml of Water for 15 minutes. Strain through muslin. Take 300ml of the liquid and add 225g of Sugar. Bring to the boil and poach the apples, three at a time until tender. Set aside. To assemble the suckets, reduce the remaining liquid until it gels on acold plate and add the Juice of a Lemon. Glaze the apples with the liquid jelly and pour a small pool round each apple on its serving plate.

 

1950

Samphire and Celeriac Parcels

 


Auntie Doris's fisherman friend, Bob Flounder takes her fishing for bass at Hengistbury Head in Hampshire. They catch a 10lb beauty. On the way back to Bobs hut, Doris spots some gleaming filaments of the tenderest samphire and gathers a basketful and cooks Bob's 90-year-old half-chinese mother's recipe.

Recipe

Filet some fresh Bass and slice lengthways as thinly as possible. Cut a Celeriac into fine julienne and blanch for a few seconds in acidulated water. Blanch some cleaned Samphire briefly in unsalted water. Place a small bundle of the Celeriac and the same amount of Samphire on each filet, along with a knob of Butter, some freshly ground Black Pepper and a little Black Rice Vinegar. Wrap the fish round the vegetables and brush the outside with a mixture of melted butter and a few drops of the vinegar. Steam for a few minutes until just cooked through and serve.

 

1966

St George's Gougeres

 


The Mendips, St George’s Day. Auntie Doris is at a ceremony to lay the foundation stone for a new village hall, when she meets a visiting Italian, Carlucci. He wants to show her his Porcini. She insists, however, that England’s most famous mush is better. He mishears when she says "It’s gorgeous" and invents the following recipe.

Recipe

Make a 4 egg choux pastry. The filling: Slice and poach 1/2kg St Georges Mushrooms and 1/2kg Button Mush in Vegetable Stock. Drain, reserve stock. Cook 2oz Plain Flour in 2oz Butter for 1-2 mins. Remove from heat and blend in 350ml Cream and 150ml of the mushroom cooking Stock. Heat until the sauce just comes to simmering point. Stir in 2 tbs freshly chopped Chervil and 2 tbs chopped Chives and plenty of freshly ground White Pepper and Sea Salt. Fold in the mushrooms. Pipe the choux mixture round the edge of six shallow ovenproof dishes. Divide the mushroom mixture into six and spoon a pile into the pastry circles. bake at 200C for 35-40 mins until well risen and browned. Serve with a crisp, green salad.

 

1970

Miguels Spiced Momatara Salsa

 


Auntie Doris is in Mexico to cheer-on Bobby Moore and friends in their bid to keep the World Cup. An under-allocation of tickets to English fans means she's watching the game against Germany on a tapas bar TV. England have just lost, so to cheer her up, Miguel, the barman, brings Doris corn chips and a delightfully zesty salsa. After plying him with Tequila slammers, she gets the recipe.

Recipe

Set a heaped tablespoon of Garam Masala to simmer in a tablespoon of water gently for a couple of minutes (Doris's Tip: "use one of those new-fangled microwaves for this, if you like, dear"). Peel, de-seed and roughly chop 500g of Momatara Tomatoes. Add two large Spring Onions, a generous helping of Coriander Leaves, and one hot, de-seeded Chilli (all finely chopped) Crush a clove of Garlic in a level teaspoonful of Sea Salt, and add with a tablespoon of Red Wine Vinegar and Sugar to taste (about a tablespoonful). Then, finally add the spice paste and stir well. Leave overnight in the fridge and serve. Doris maintains that Bonetti would never have let in those goals if he'd had a bowlful before the match!

 

1974

Pork with Rhubarb Sauce

 


It’s February 1974 and Doris is helping her friend Edgar Bacon on his pig farm in Yorkshire. Edgar is a bit smelly when he’s at work, but Doris always says he “scrubs up quite nicely”. They had a bit of a fling in the fifties, and Doris still visits him regularly — mostly because she loves his pork in cider. One evening, whilst walking back to the farmhouse after helping a sow to give birth, Doris spots smoke rising from one of the forcing sheds belonging to the rhubarb farm next door. She runs round to tell them, but there’s no- one about. Doris opens the shed door and spots that the straw used to keep the rhubarb warm is smouldering. She grabs a nearby watering hose, turns the stop-cock and manages to put out the fire. Mrs Byeckaslike, the rhubarb farmer’s wife, is so delighted, she cooks dinner for Doris with her most secret recipe.

Recipe

Simmer a 8oz Rhubarb in a saucepan with a splash of Water until tender, then disolve in Sugar to taste, a knob of Butter and pinch of ground Anise. Fry one large Red Onion, a crushed clove of Garlic and a finely chopped half inch cube of Ginger in and ounce of Butter until soft, but not browned. Remove from the pan and gently fry four thick Pork Medallions in the same butter, until cooked through. Remove and set on warm pltaes to rest. Deglaze the pan with the Rhubarb mixture. Add the Onions and season. Serve the meat on the sauce with Green Vegetables and sauteed Potato cubes.

1974

Navets Farcis

 


It’s April and Doris is on a small farm near Toulouse, staying with chef-farmer Monsieur Roger Toujour. He’s helping her compile a book of Pyrenean recipes and they are trying out recipes together. Roger has loads of ancient French cookbooks in an old dusty bookcase in his bedroom. When Doris expresses and interest he takes her upstairs and offers to give her one. Doris refuses to take a whole book, but says she’d love a couple of recipes. Roger rifles through his stack of photo-stats, pulls out an interesting, pungent sausage and then gives Doris a wonderful stuffing. She asks Roger for some of the small purple-topped turnips he’s growing in one of his fields, then adapts the stuffing mix to make this wonderful dish.

Recipe

Slice the top third from each of 15 small Turnips and scoop out the centre of the bottom piece with a melon-baller. Blanch the turnip bases and tops in Salted Water for 2 minutes and set aside. Soak four slices of White Bread (crusts removed) in 12 floz Milk. Fry 8oz Lean Pork, 8oz Lean Veal (both minced) and 6 cloves Garlic (finely chopped) in 1tbs Olive Oil for 5 minutes. remove from the heat, squeeze out the bread and stir into the meat along with a lightly beaten Egg, 1tbs chopped Parsley and a squirt of Lemon. Season to taste and mix well. Season the inside of the turnips and fill with the stuffing and bake at 190C for 40 minutes. put the tops back on 10 minutes before the end of cooking. Serve hot, or cold.

 

1985

Elderflower Sorbet

 


June 1985 and Doris is on a cookery week entitled; "A Flower in Every Mouthful" — a crash course in 'the art of Nouvelle Cuisine and the delights of Edible Flowers'. Despite finding the French-accented instructor, Walter Pansy, rather attractive, Doris can't get to grips with the concept and becomes irritated by day two. When Walter tells Doris to garnish her lovingly-cooked duck breasts with Antirhinums in aspic, it’s the last straw... Doris gives Walter a tirade of abuse about his 'mouse-sized protions and poncy garnishes' and storms off to the bar for a stiff rum. Six drinks later, when Walter finds her, Doris is feeling a bit mellower. She warms to him even more when he drops his put-on Frenchness in favour of his native Yorkshire tongue and admits he prefers roast beef and Yorkshires to the 'fussy nonsense' he has to teach. But Walter insists there is a place for flowers in cooking and gives Doris a recipe which has since become one of her favourites.

Recipe

Dissolve 12oz Sugar in 1 1/2 pints of hot Water and bring to simmering point in a large pan. Put 16 Elderflower heads in the syrup, cover, bring back to a simmer, then remove from heat. Leave to infuse for 30 minutes. Then stir in the juice of two Lemons and strain the mixture. Put in a large rigid container in the freezer and chill until semi-frozen. Beat a large Eggwhite until firm, but not stiff, and fold it into the slushy syrup. Re- freeze until firm, beating every 15 minutes to improve texture. Serve garnished with a fresh piece of Elderflower for extra fragrance. Delicious with Gooseberry compote.

1998

Strawberry and Vanilla Galettes

 

 


Doris's birthday treat is a balooning trip to France with her good friend, entrepeneur Richard Branston-Pickles. But they're forced to make an emergency landing in a strawberry field, near Dover. A cockney-speaking farmer rushes out brandishing a gun, ranting and raving, until he recognises Doris. Turns-out she looked after him when he was evacuated from the East End during the war. It was Doris who taught him how to grow strawberries. He invites them in for dinner and his French wife serves her speciality.

Recipe

Whisk 4 Eggs and 170g of Caster Sugar in a bowl over a saucepan of boiling water until it thickens. Remove from the heat and whisk until cold. Sieve in 115g of Flour, mix and add a little pulverised Vanilla Pod. Turn into a well-greased sandwich tin and bake for 25-35mins in a moderate oven. Make a Vanilla Syrup and add a dash of good Brandy. Split the cake, cover with a layer of sliced Strawberries and pour on syrup. Serve with Greek yoghurt or cream.

 

1999

Gooseberry Tart Tatin with Cardamon Custard

 

Eurest executive chef at Daiwa Europe Jonathan Hibbs and his manager Rupert Abbott are lunching at the Butler's Wharf Chef School with Radio 2 presenter Sarah Kennedy. Auntie Doris arrives unexpectedly, hoping to steal ideas for new dishes from the students'; lecture notes. She overhears Sarah boasting about the very special gooseberry tart that John has devised for her. Doris, who has long had the hots for John's gooseberries, is racked with jealously. She snatches the recipe sheet and rushes out. The tart's so delicious, Auntie Doris's fury abates. "I forgive them both," she says. "And at least I can now stop listening to Farming Today."

Recipe

Make the custard by infusing 10 crushed Cardamon Seeds and the peel of an Orange in 500ml of hot Milk. Blend 8 Egg Yolks with 125g Caster Sugar. Pass the cooled milk and eggs through a sieve and mix together. Gently heat to spoon-coating consistency. Cool quickly. Cook 600g Gooseberries in a frying pan with 125g Unsalted Butter, 250g Caster Sugar and a pinch of Ground Cinnamon until slightly caramelised. Cover with a disc of Puff Pastry and bake till golden. Turn out, leave to rest for 10 minutes and serve with the custard.

2000

Spicy Flied Pig, with Peashoots

 


It’s Chinese New Year and Doris is staying with her friend Mae Bin Wong and her husband, Sum Thin, in the flat above their 2 Deer Restaurant on Kowloon-side of Hong Kong. They were comparing cooking styles in the East and West when Mae Bin asked “Pigs can fly in England, Yes?”. Doris laughed and gently tried to explain what the saying meant. Mae Bin looked very puzzled and said “In China, pigs can fly velly good, I show you tonight!” Doris was the confused one now. All became clear at dinner when Mae Bin served up and announced her traditional New Year dish.

Recipe

Marinate a boned leg of pork in Rice Wine, Soy Sauce, Lime Juice, Honey, a little Ginger, Garlic and Chinese Five Spice Powder (home ground is best). Leave in fridge overnight. Next day, place the pork in a steamer and cook thoroughly. Meanwhile, strain the marinade and simmer down to a thick, shiny sauce. When the Pork is cooked, chill it, slice very thinly and cut into strips. Heat some Lard (or Vegetable Oil) until smoking, then throw in the Pork strips and some finely chopped Garlic and Chilli. Cook until crispy. Rinse the Peashoots and toss in Boiling Water for 15-20 seconds. Drain and put in bowls. Put the pork on top and drizzle over a little of the sauce. And if you don’t like it ... Doris’ll believe pigs can fly!

2195

Papaya and Coconut Icecream

 


It’s March 2195 and Doris is at the tropical resort of Guildford On Sea ... the jewel of the Surrey Riviera. She’s visiting the beachfront home of Zoot Williams, great grandson of the famous 21st century classical composer Sir Robbie Williams. Doris is there to research her new book The Universal Gastronome — a collection of recipes from seven galaxies. Zoot’s gene- partner Malkir, from the planet Thwaaark, has agreed to contribute some of her favourite ways of cooking Thwaarkan blue tree worms. In exchange, she asks Doris to make some Earth dishes, which she can scan into her replicator and re-generate at dinner parties. Doris isn’t quite sure what to cook at first, but then spots a Coconut palm and an old Papaya tree in the garden. She’s instantly inspired to make this traditional Surrey classic.

Recipe

Warm a basic custard mix of 8 Eggs, 8oz Sugar and 1 1/2 pints of Milk, in a waterbath until thickens. Allow to cool. Mix 1 cup of mashed ripe Paw Paw with 2oz Sugar and stir in 3/4 pint of Coconut Milk and 3/4 pint of Double Cream. Blend with the Custard and freeze (use a thermo-nuclear particle decelerator if you have one to hand; if not, an antique Bejam’s freezer will do). Serve with Papaya Puree and toasted Coconut Flakes.

 

19xx

Passionfruit Flummery

 


Recipe

Soak 1tbs Gelatine in a cup of cold Water for 2hrs. Add 1/2 cup Sugar and blend in 1 tbs Flour and another cup of cold Water. Add juice of 2 Oranges and 1 Lemon. Bring mixture to the boil in a large saucepan. Allow to cool and when nearly cold add the pulp of 6 Passionfruits. Beat thoroughly until thick and white and serve with whipped cream.

19xx

Aunt Doris's Kaboucha & Orange Jam

 


Recipe

Peel, de-seed and cube the flesh of a 1kg Kaboucha Squash and simmer until tender. Drain and puree. Grate the zest and squeeze the juice out of a Lemon and 3 large Oranges and add to the puree. Weigh-in 1kg Sugar and slowly bring to the boil, stirring continuously.After about 20 minutes the mixture will thicken. Pour into hot jars and seal. Adding some chopped Onion, Spices, Salt and Vinegar before cooking converts the jam into a delicious chutney.

19xx

Auntie Doris's Grandad's Burdock Beer

 


Recipe

Mix a teaspoon of Dried Brewers Yeast with some warm sugar solution and put in a warm place to start the yeast. Take four good-sized Burdock Roots and clean them thoroughly. Boil for 25 minutes in about five pints of Water. Add four heaped tablespoons of Molasses and 14oz of Sugar and dissolve in the pan. Add the juice of a large Grapefruit, and a Lemon. Strain out.

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