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PUBLISHED
BY CITYHERBS
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1790
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Petits
Pois a la Chantilly
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It’s June 1790 and Doris is at a royal garden
party held for the latest batch of French aristocratic ‘émigrés’
to arrive in England. Among the guests were Count and Countess De
La Rue, from Chantilly. The Count, a foppish man calle Danny, tries
to win favour with Doris by infering that he’s the famous Scarlet
Pimpernel. Although he bores her, Doris puts up with him until he
begins to get a bit fruity. She is about to slap him when she notices
his wife walking past and beckons her over. The Count flushes bright
red and the Countess knows immediately what’s going on. She says
“allow me” and then slaps her husband for Doris. She explains that
he couldn’t be the Pimpernel because he’s frightened of his own
reflection. And sink me! The two ladies begin to get on like a house
on fire. The countess even gives Doris this fabulous recipe.
Recipe
Scrape
and trim a bunch of Baby Carrots. Put in a pan with a teacup
of cold Water,1/2oz Butter, a sprig of Mint
and Salt, Pepper ans Sugar to taste. Cover
the pan and allow to simmer for 7-10 minutes. Add 1 pint of shelled
young Peas, anothe 1/2 oz Butter and extra seasoning
if needed and cook rapidly uncovered until the peas are tender and
only 1 tbs of liquid remains. Remove the mint, fold in 2 tbs Whipped
Cream and serve.
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1816
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Swordfish
with Seville Orange Butter
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Doris is a guest of Gioacchino Antonio Rossini,
who’s writing “The Barber of Seville” in the Spanish city itself.
Signor Faltio (manager of the hotel where Rossinis party is staying)
hears that Doris is a gourmet and introduces her to his clumsy, but
excellent, chef Manuel, from Barcelona. Manuel confides that his pet
hamster has escaped and that Signor Faltio will fire him if the guests
see it. Doris immediately makes a cheese soufflet, which her pet gerbils
back home find irresistible. She baits a cage trap with it and retires.
Next day, shock, horror! There’s a rat in the cage. Manuel is delighted,
insisting that the creature is his pet hamster, Basillico. To show
his gratitude, he cooks Doris his most famous dish — and gives her
the recipe.
Recipe
Make the dressing by creaming together 1tsp Seville Orange Juice,
a pinch of Sugar, 1/2tsp Paprika, the zest of 1/2
the Orange (finely chopped), 1 1/2oz Butter and a
slice of Shallot crushed with coarse Sea Salt. Leave
to set in the fridge. Marinate 1kg of 3cm cubed Swordfish
in the juice of 1 Lemon, mixed with that of 1/2 a Seville
Orange, and a cup of well seasoned Fish Stock and plenty
of Parsley and Thyme, for an hour. Drain, season,
place on skewers and brush with melted Butter. Char-grill for 4
minutes making sure all sides are seared. Serve with a knob of the
Seville Orange Butter.
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1900
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Duck
Breasts stuffed with Nisperos
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Doris meets young Hungarian, Erich Weiss,
whilst they’re both holidaying at Kaka del Torre on the Costa Packet,
Spain. One evening after much drinking in the hotel bar, Eric invites
Doris up to his room. She agrees to go, but regrets it when he produces
a gag, blindfold, a pair of handcuffs, a heavy duty chain and some
stout rope. Doris is about to fetch ring for the concierge when
Eric asks her if she’ll chain, tie and blindfold him and lock him
in his trunk. Doris refuses at first, but he manages to convince
her it’LL be alright. After about twenty minutes, Erich hasn’t emerged.
Doris begins to get worried. When half an hour has passed she runs
down to the night porter for some tools to open the case. Soon all
the staff and guests of the hotel gather in the room to gawp. Several
men tug and lever the chains, but to no avail. Then Doris has an
idea... She plucks a hairpin out of her neat bun and uses it to
pick the lock. Success! Senorita Garcias the owner of the hotel,
it so pleased that Doris has averted a potentially scandalous tragedy,
that she cooks her a splendid meal — and lets her have the recipe!
Recipe
Soften
2oz finely chopped Shallots in 1oz Butter. Season
well and add 2 tbs Demerara Sugar, 4 oz peeled, diced Nisperos
and a dash of Lemon Juice. Then stir in 1 tbs pan-toasted
Pine Kernels. Allow to cool. slit open 6 Duck Breasts
(skin on), stuff with the mixture and sew up. Cook the breasts in
a lightly buttered pan, skin side down for about 6 minutes. turn
and cook for a further four minutes, Serve sliced with boiled new
potatoes, and fresh peas.
P.S.
Next time Doris hears from Erich, he’s living in America and has
changed his name to Harry Houdini.
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1924
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Baked
fruit with Sweet Cicely Custard
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June 1924. Doris is cooking for a hunting
party at the country home of, Lord William Witherington-Carruthers.
The hunt goes well until Lord William’s son Dick, fires a round
into a plump hen pheasant he spots in a distant bush. A blood-curdling
scream emanates from the bush and head gardener Percy Tosser, rushes
out clutching his russet-trousered behind. The man is in a terrible
state and witters on about his phobia of hospitals. Luckily Doris
has a flask of whisky and some tweezers in her voluminous handbag
and insists that she deals with the problem in the potting shed.
Doris sterilises the tweezers with a capful of the whisky, then
her and Percy share the rest. Twenty one pieces of shot later the
job is done and Doris patches up his wounds. Percy is so pleased,
he gives Doris a huge bag of peaches, nectarines and apricots from
the hothouse, a bunch of sweet cicely and his mothers favourite
dessert recipe.
Recipe
Cut
up some succulent stonefruit (a mixture of Peaches, Nectarines,
Apricots and Loquats is ideal), place in a baking
dish and scatter on some Vanilla Sugar. Put in a hot oven
for about 10 minutes until softened and slightly browned. Strain
off any juice and reduce it to make a thick-ish syrup. For the Custard:
Simmer a split Vanilla Pod and good handful of coarsely chopped
Sweet Cicely in pint of Milk for 2 minutes. Allow to
cool then strain. Beat four Egg Yolks with 1 tsp Cornflour
and 2tbs Sugar and then blend in the cooled milk. Put in
a double-boiled and warm until the custard thickens. Drizzle the
syrup and custard over the fruit and serve just warm.
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1942
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Spring 1942, Land Army Volunteer Auntie Doris
is digging for victory. Not easy in a watercress bed. She spots
a gypsy boy stealing the crop. Although duty-bound to report him,
she takes pity on the thin lad and helps him gather an armful. In
return, she procures his grandmother's recipe.
Recipe
Make
a batter from a walnut-sized piece of Yeast, 140g Flour,
1 tbs Salt and 150 ml water. If you have no yeast, use Brown
ale, or Stout in place of the water. Wash and throughly
dry sprigs of Watercress. Dip in the batter and deep-fry.
Serve with poached trout, or steamed chicken. Try using the batter
to coat Wild Garlic Leaves, too.
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1943
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Stuffed
Brandied Apricots
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May 1943. Doris, with a red-spotted beret,
a pencilled-on moustache and a puff of Gitanes, is parachuted into
Bergerac. Resistance leader Henri Le Coq hands her a fragrant, sealed
wooden box. Through a hail of Nazi machinegun fire, she makes her
way back to Buck House. King George opens it, with glee. Doris faints,
with horror. It contains 10 lbs of Apricots ... which she has growing
in the greenhouse at Warminster-on-Sea! Nowadays, whenever Doris
makes this delicious dessert, she recalls the couple of parts of
the royal anatomy she'd most liked to have chopped off.
Recipe
Poach
8 large Apricots in 8tbs good Brandy, 4 tbsp Caster
Sugar, 1/4 pint Water and 1 tbs Lemon Juice until
tender. Remove the apricots and allow to cool. Strain the poaching
liquid and simmer to reduce until syrupy. Seive 5oz Cottage Cheese
and mix with 2oz Full Fat Soft Cheese and 1tbs Icing Sugar.
Slice the apricots almost in half and remove the stones. Stuff with
the mixture and serve drizzled with the poaching syrup. Chill for
2 hours and serve, two per person, sprinkled with toasted slivered
Almonds.
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1943
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Doris is a land gal in Kent. Farmer John Sideways
and his wife Eileen were generous, but because of rationing, there
was little to eat. Good fortune struck on April 23rd. John was teaching
Doris to shoot when she dropped the shotgun. It went off and bagged
a couple of rabbits in the next field. As Doris (with subdued pride),
went to pick-up her spoils, she noticed a huge ring of creamy-white
St Georges Mushrooms. She'd heard a rumour that Eileen had an 'arrangement'
with Jones the butcher who gave her half a pound of illicit pork
and a couple of smoked rashers every Wednesday afternoon. Doris
procured the rashers so she could cook one of her specialities.
Recipe
Bone the two Rabbits (or get Jones to do it), cut the meat
into cubes and brown in bacon fat with chopped Smoked Bacon,
a diced Carrot, Onion and Celery Stick, some
Parsley, Salt and Pepper (if you can get it).
Add 1/2 pint of stock (made from the bones) and 1/2 pint of Dry
Cider. Cook in a low oven until meat is tender then add plenty
of finely sliced St Georges Mushrooms and 1/2 pint of Cream
and return to simmer for a few minutes. Serve with Potatoes
and Spring Greens.
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1948
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Loquat's
Caramelised Nispero Pancakes
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1948, north of Malaga. Doris is on her way
to visit her soldier sweetheart,Tommy Gunn, in Gibraltar. Her train
is held up by bandits, who call themselves the Nisperos,
after their favourite fruits, which grow wild locally. Doris and
the gang-leader, Loquat, become so infatuated, they swap recipes.
Recipe
Heat
25g Butter in a heavy pan and add 175g of Unrefined Golden
Sugar and a little Lemon Juice. Cook until the syrup
turns deep golden brown, then toss in 300g of peeled, halved and
stoned Nisperos. Cook over high heat until the fruit begins
to soften. Add a dash of good Brandy or Calvados and
set fire to the pan. Put into pancakes, roll, sprinkle with a little
Icing Sugar and some chopped Lemon Balm. Heat some
more spirit and serve flaming.
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1948
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Farmer
Giles' Banquet Suckets
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Kent, 1948 and Auntie Doris is on hop-picking
hols. An old farmer told her her about the apple suckets used in
18th Century banquets, but got a slap round the face when he told
her what variety to use!
Recipe
Neatly
peel and core a dozen small Cox'sand replace the core with
a strip of Lemon Peel. Boil the parings and two more
halved, unpeeled Applesin 600ml of Water for 15 minutes.
Strain through muslin. Take 300ml of the liquid and add 225g of
Sugar. Bring to the boil and poach the apples, three at a
time until tender. Set aside. To assemble the suckets, reduce the
remaining liquid until it gels on acold plate and add the Juice
of a Lemon. Glaze the apples with the liquid jelly and pour
a small pool round each apple on its serving plate.
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1950
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Samphire
and Celeriac Parcels
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Auntie Doris's fisherman friend, Bob Flounder
takes her fishing for bass at Hengistbury Head in Hampshire. They
catch a 10lb beauty. On the way back to Bobs hut, Doris spots some
gleaming filaments of the tenderest samphire and gathers a basketful
and cooks Bob's 90-year-old half-chinese mother's recipe.
Recipe
Filet
some fresh Bass and slice lengthways as thinly as possible.
Cut a Celeriac into fine julienne and blanch for a
few seconds in acidulated water. Blanch some cleaned Samphire
briefly in unsalted water. Place a small bundle of the
Celeriac and the same amount of Samphire on
each filet, along with a knob of Butter, some freshly
ground Black Pepper and a little Black Rice Vinegar.
Wrap the fish round the vegetables and brush the outside with
a mixture of melted butter and a few drops of the vinegar.
Steam for a few minutes until just cooked through and serve.
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1966
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The Mendips, St Georges Day. Auntie Doris is at a ceremony
to lay the foundation stone for a new village hall, when she meets
a visiting Italian, Carlucci. He wants to show her his Porcini.
She insists, however, that Englands most famous mush is better.
He mishears when she says "Its gorgeous" and invents
the following recipe.
Recipe
Make
a 4 egg choux pastry. The filling: Slice and poach 1/2kg St Georges
Mushrooms and 1/2kg Button Mush in Vegetable Stock.
Drain, reserve stock. Cook 2oz Plain Flour in 2oz Butter
for 1-2 mins. Remove from heat and blend in 350ml Cream and
150ml of the mushroom cooking Stock. Heat until the sauce
just comes to simmering point. Stir in 2 tbs freshly chopped Chervil
and 2 tbs chopped Chives and plenty of freshly ground
White Pepper and Sea Salt. Fold in the mushrooms.
Pipe the choux mixture round the edge of six shallow ovenproof dishes.
Divide the mushroom mixture into six and spoon a pile into the pastry
circles. bake at 200C for 35-40 mins until well risen and browned.
Serve with a crisp, green salad.
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1970
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Miguels
Spiced Momatara Salsa
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Auntie Doris is in Mexico to cheer-on Bobby
Moore and friends in their bid to keep the World Cup. An under-allocation
of tickets to English fans means she's watching the game against
Germany on a tapas bar TV. England have just lost, so to cheer her
up, Miguel, the barman, brings Doris corn chips and a delightfully
zesty salsa. After plying him with Tequila slammers, she gets the
recipe.
Recipe
Set
a heaped tablespoon of Garam Masala to simmer in a tablespoon
of water gently for a couple of minutes (Doris's Tip: "use
one of those new-fangled microwaves for this, if you like, dear").
Peel, de-seed and roughly chop 500g of Momatara Tomatoes.
Add two large Spring Onions, a generous helping of Coriander
Leaves, and one hot, de-seeded Chilli (all finely chopped)
Crush a clove of Garlic in a level teaspoonful of Sea
Salt, and add with a tablespoon of Red Wine Vinegar and
Sugar to taste (about a tablespoonful). Then, finally add
the spice paste and stir well. Leave overnight in the fridge and
serve. Doris maintains that Bonetti would never have let in those
goals if he'd had a bowlful before the match!
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1974
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It’s February 1974 and Doris is helping her
friend Edgar Bacon on his pig farm in Yorkshire. Edgar is a bit
smelly when he’s at work, but Doris always says he “scrubs up quite
nicely”. They had a bit of a fling in the fifties, and Doris still
visits him regularly — mostly because she loves his pork in cider.
One evening, whilst walking back to the farmhouse after helping
a sow to give birth, Doris spots smoke rising from one of the forcing
sheds belonging to the rhubarb farm next door. She runs round to
tell them, but there’s no- one about. Doris opens the shed door
and spots that the straw used to keep the rhubarb warm is smouldering.
She grabs a nearby watering hose, turns the stop-cock and manages
to put out the fire. Mrs Byeckaslike, the rhubarb farmer’s wife,
is so delighted, she cooks dinner for Doris with her most secret
recipe.
Recipe
Simmer
a 8oz Rhubarb in a saucepan with a splash of Water
until tender, then disolve in Sugar to taste, a knob of Butter
and pinch of ground Anise. Fry one large Red Onion,
a crushed clove of Garlic and a finely chopped half inch
cube of Ginger in and ounce of Butter until soft,
but not browned. Remove from the pan and gently fry four thick
Pork Medallions in the same butter, until cooked through. Remove
and set on warm pltaes to rest. Deglaze the pan with the Rhubarb
mixture. Add the Onions and season. Serve the meat on the
sauce with Green Vegetables and sauteed Potato cubes.
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1974
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It’s April and Doris is on a small farm near Toulouse, staying with
chef-farmer Monsieur Roger Toujour. He’s helping her compile a book
of Pyrenean recipes and they are trying out recipes together. Roger
has loads of ancient French cookbooks in an old dusty bookcase in
his bedroom. When Doris expresses and interest he takes her upstairs
and offers to give her one. Doris refuses to take a whole book,
but says she’d love a couple of recipes. Roger rifles through his
stack of photo-stats, pulls out an interesting, pungent sausage
and then gives Doris a wonderful stuffing. She asks Roger for some
of the small purple-topped turnips he’s growing in one of his fields,
then adapts the stuffing mix to make this wonderful dish.
Recipe
Slice
the top third from each of 15 small Turnips and scoop out
the centre of the bottom piece with a melon-baller. Blanch the turnip
bases and tops in Salted Water for 2 minutes and set aside.
Soak four slices of White Bread (crusts removed) in 12 floz
Milk. Fry 8oz Lean Pork, 8oz Lean Veal (both
minced) and 6 cloves Garlic (finely chopped) in 1tbs Olive
Oil for 5 minutes. remove from the heat, squeeze out the bread
and stir into the meat along with a lightly beaten Egg, 1tbs
chopped Parsley and a squirt of Lemon. Season to taste
and mix well. Season the inside of the turnips and fill with the
stuffing and bake at 190C for 40 minutes. put the tops back on 10
minutes before the end of cooking. Serve hot, or cold.
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1985
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June 1985 and Doris is on a cookery week entitled;
"A Flower in Every Mouthful" — a crash course in 'the art of Nouvelle
Cuisine and the delights of Edible Flowers'. Despite finding the
French-accented instructor, Walter Pansy, rather attractive, Doris
can't get to grips with the concept and becomes irritated by day
two. When Walter tells Doris to garnish her lovingly-cooked duck
breasts with Antirhinums in aspic, it’s the last straw... Doris
gives Walter a tirade of abuse about his 'mouse-sized protions and
poncy garnishes' and storms off to the bar for a stiff rum. Six
drinks later, when Walter finds her, Doris is feeling a bit mellower.
She warms to him even more when he drops his put-on Frenchness in
favour of his native Yorkshire tongue and admits he prefers roast
beef and Yorkshires to the 'fussy nonsense' he has to teach. But
Walter insists there is a place for flowers in cooking and gives
Doris a recipe which has since become one of her favourites.
Recipe
Dissolve
12oz Sugar in 1 1/2 pints of hot Water and bring to
simmering point in a large pan. Put 16 Elderflower heads
in the syrup, cover, bring back to a simmer, then remove from heat.
Leave to infuse for 30 minutes. Then stir in the juice of two
Lemons and strain the mixture. Put in a large rigid container
in the freezer and chill until semi-frozen. Beat a large Eggwhite
until firm, but not stiff, and fold it into the slushy syrup.
Re- freeze until firm, beating every 15 minutes to improve texture.
Serve garnished with a fresh piece of Elderflower for extra
fragrance. Delicious with Gooseberry compote.
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1998
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Strawberry
and Vanilla Galettes
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Doris's
birthday treat is a balooning trip to France with her good friend,
entrepeneur Richard Branston-Pickles. But they're forced to
make an emergency landing in a strawberry field, near Dover.
A cockney-speaking farmer rushes out brandishing a gun, ranting
and raving, until he recognises Doris. Turns-out she looked
after him when he was evacuated from the East End during the
war. It was Doris who taught him how to grow strawberries. He
invites them in for dinner and his French wife serves her speciality. |
Recipe
Whisk
4 Eggs and 170g of Caster Sugar in a bowl over a saucepan
of boiling water until it thickens. Remove from the heat and whisk
until cold. Sieve in 115g of Flour, mix and add a little
pulverised Vanilla Pod. Turn into a well-greased sandwich
tin and bake for 25-35mins in a moderate oven. Make a Vanilla
Syrup and add a dash of good Brandy. Split the cake,
cover with a layer of sliced Strawberries and pour on syrup.
Serve with Greek yoghurt or cream.
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1999
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Gooseberry Tart Tatin with Cardamon Custard
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Eurest
executive chef at Daiwa Europe Jonathan Hibbs and his manager Rupert
Abbott are lunching at the Butler's Wharf Chef School with Radio
2 presenter Sarah Kennedy. Auntie Doris arrives unexpectedly, hoping
to steal ideas for new dishes from the students'; lecture notes.
She overhears Sarah boasting about the very special gooseberry tart
that John has devised for her. Doris, who has long had the hots
for John's gooseberries, is racked with jealously. She snatches
the recipe sheet and rushes out. The tart's so delicious, Auntie
Doris's fury abates. "I forgive them both," she says.
"And at least I can now stop listening to Farming Today."
Recipe
Make
the custard by infusing 10 crushed Cardamon Seeds and the
peel of an Orange in 500ml of hot Milk. Blend 8 Egg
Yolks with 125g Caster Sugar. Pass the cooled milk and
eggs through a sieve and mix together. Gently heat to spoon-coating
consistency. Cool quickly. Cook 600g Gooseberries in a frying
pan with 125g Unsalted Butter, 250g Caster Sugar and
a pinch of Ground Cinnamon until slightly caramelised. Cover
with a disc of Puff Pastry and bake till golden. Turn out,
leave to rest for 10 minutes and serve with the custard.
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2000
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Spicy Flied Pig, with Peashoots
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It’s Chinese New Year and Doris is staying
with her friend Mae Bin Wong and her husband, Sum Thin, in the
flat above their 2 Deer Restaurant on Kowloon-side of Hong Kong.
They were comparing cooking styles in the East and West when Mae
Bin asked “Pigs can fly in England, Yes?”. Doris laughed and gently
tried to explain what the saying meant. Mae Bin looked very puzzled
and said “In China, pigs can fly velly good, I show you tonight!”
Doris was the confused one now. All became clear at dinner when
Mae Bin served up and announced her traditional New Year dish.
Recipe
Marinate
a boned leg of pork in Rice Wine, Soy Sauce, Lime
Juice, Honey, a little Ginger, Garlic and
Chinese Five Spice Powder (home ground is best). Leave in
fridge overnight. Next day, place the pork in a steamer and cook
thoroughly. Meanwhile, strain the marinade and simmer down to a
thick, shiny sauce. When the Pork is cooked, chill it, slice
very thinly and cut into strips. Heat some Lard (or Vegetable
Oil) until smoking, then throw in the Pork strips and
some finely chopped Garlic and Chilli. Cook until
crispy. Rinse the Peashoots and toss in Boiling Water
for 15-20 seconds. Drain and put in bowls. Put the pork on top and
drizzle over a little of the sauce. And if you don’t like it ...
Doris’ll believe pigs can fly!
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2195
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Papaya and Coconut Icecream
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It’s March 2195 and Doris is at the tropical resort of Guildford
On Sea ... the jewel of the Surrey Riviera. She’s visiting the
beachfront home of Zoot Williams, great grandson of the famous
21st century classical composer Sir Robbie Williams. Doris is
there to research her new book The Universal Gastronome — a collection
of recipes from seven galaxies. Zoot’s gene- partner Malkir, from
the planet Thwaaark, has agreed to contribute some of her favourite
ways of cooking Thwaarkan blue tree worms. In exchange, she asks
Doris to make some Earth dishes, which she can scan into her replicator
and re-generate at dinner parties. Doris isn’t quite sure what
to cook at first, but then spots a Coconut palm and an old Papaya
tree in the garden. She’s instantly inspired to make this traditional
Surrey classic.
Recipe
Warm
a basic custard mix of 8 Eggs, 8oz Sugar and 1 1/2
pints of Milk, in a waterbath until thickens. Allow to cool.
Mix 1 cup of mashed ripe Paw Paw with 2oz Sugar and
stir in 3/4 pint of Coconut Milk and 3/4 pint of Double
Cream. Blend with the Custard and freeze (use a thermo-nuclear
particle decelerator if you have one to hand; if not, an antique
Bejam’s freezer will do). Serve with Papaya Puree and toasted
Coconut Flakes.
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19xx
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Recipe
Soak
1tbs Gelatine in a cup of cold Water for 2hrs. Add
1/2 cup Sugar and blend in 1 tbs Flour and another
cup of cold Water. Add juice of 2 Oranges and 1 Lemon.
Bring mixture to the boil in a large saucepan. Allow to cool and
when nearly cold add the pulp of 6 Passionfruits. Beat thoroughly
until thick and white and serve with whipped cream.
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19xx
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Aunt
Doris's Kaboucha & Orange Jam
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Recipe
Peel,
de-seed and cube the flesh of a 1kg Kaboucha Squash and simmer
until tender. Drain and puree. Grate the zest and squeeze the juice
out of a Lemon and 3 large Oranges and add to the
puree. Weigh-in 1kg Sugar and slowly bring to the boil, stirring
continuously.After about 20 minutes the mixture will thicken. Pour
into hot jars and seal. Adding some chopped Onion, Spices,
Salt and Vinegar before cooking converts the jam into
a delicious chutney.
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19xx
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Auntie
Doris's Grandad's Burdock Beer
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Recipe
Mix a teaspoon of Dried Brewers Yeast with some warm
sugar solution and put in a warm place to start the yeast.
Take four good-sized Burdock Roots and clean them thoroughly.
Boil for 25 minutes in about five pints of Water. Add
four heaped tablespoons of Molasses and 14oz of Sugar
and dissolve in the pan. Add the juice of a large Grapefruit,
and a Lemon. Strain out.
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©Copyright
1998 CityHerbs. All rights reserved. |
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